It has been dubbed ‘the best ski resort in the world’ and ‘wow, even bigger than Vail’… Jon Clarke visits Baqueira and Val d’Aran in Spain

WE ARE at the top of the Baciver chairlift, at an altitude of 2,610m in the Pyrenees.

There’s a light dusting of powder and the kids can’t wait to go.

We are in Baqueira, the largest ski resort in southern Europe, with 161 km of slopes in four different areas and six very high peaks.

About 1,000 meters below, at the end of a cell phone, is my wife having a completely different day.

As you enjoy the mountains, your relationship with the snow is visual, not tactile, as you hike just below the snow line with a friend and a packed lunch ready.

Not a fan of skiing? Don’t worry, Baqueira Beret is part of Spain’s wonderful Val d’Aran, a totally independent fiefdom of fun and festivities, where there’s more to do than you can shake a ski pole at.

The only valley in the Pyrenees with an East-West orientation, this impressive mountain redoubt has 33 towns and villages and even has its own language.

Some 3,000 local souls speak Aranese, but don’t worry, they also speak plenty of English, along with the obligatory Catalan and Spanish.

However, what is most relevant to the traveler is the rich local culture… and, in particular, the food.

The architecture of the region is distinct, and the local authorities (the Aranese, it turns out, have their own government) have done well to maintain the integrity of their towns, which could have been ruined by modern blocks in the style of many European ski resorts.

But this is where the King of Spain chooses to hone his spins, minus his wife Letizia, who, like mine, isn’t a fan of winter sports.

He has a splendid villa, appropriately just above the main lift, and turns up a few times during the season with friends, as do his brothers and sisters, nieces and nephews, explains the resort’s head of marketing, Pep.

“The Bourbon family received the villa in 1984 from the heads of the resort and only they can use it,” he explains.

Coincidentally, the disgraced former PP treasurer, Luis Bárcenas, also has a villa here. “But we try to keep that a secret,” adds Pep.

Described by the Daily Telegraph as the ‘perfect ski resort’ and by the Financial Times as ‘Spain’s real secret’, Baqueira truly has incredible charm.

Local American businessman/writer/real-estate agent Keith Kirwen arrived as a snowboarder two decades ago and he wholeheartedly agrees.

“I found this little piece of paradise by accident and couldn’t believe it was bigger than Vail, Colorado,” he reveals.

Coming from an American, that’s something.

But the statistics are certainly impressive, even when compared to the best resorts in the US and those in France or Switzerland.

The ski area extends from 1,500 m to 2,610 m and has 99 slopes and 35 lifts.

Opened in the 1960s, it has 161 km of marked tracks, seven kilometers of marked off-piste and seven kilometers of cross-country tracks.

It comes in four separate areas; Baqueira, Beret, Boniagua and the recently opened Baciver, which has created half a dozen new slopes.

Due to its north-facing aspect and proximity to the Atlantic, it has some of the best snow in Europe and if the snow gods aren’t shining, there are 50 snow cannons to help.

We certainly found plenty to entertain ourselves; The children’s snow park stands out with its large number of jumps, as well as the wonderful Eth Coret race that winds through a pine forest.

Classes were easy to arrange through Era Escola who provided the wonderful Alycia for the kids, while I even tried a couple of advanced sessions with local guy Francis who got us off the track and even taught us a bit of Aranese .

But the key to a successful family vacation is the nearby mountain towns, each offering an abundance of churches and museums to visit, as well as plenty of local restaurants.

The history of the area is fascinating, as it was a key mountain pass used by Republicans for escape during the Spanish Civil War, as well as a later base for the Maquis (the guerrillas who continued to fight Franco well into the 1980s). 1950).

During World War II, the French resistance smuggled 20,000 Jews through the high mountain passes to safety here and on the way to Portugal.

You really get an idea of ​​this, heading up the Rio Verde mountain pass above the wonderful medieval village of Bagergue, which at 1419m is the highest in the valley.

It forms part of the famous GR211 (Great Route) trail and is a lovely walk, often below the snow line, where you should see eagles, vultures and even, if you’re lucky, one of the brown bears reintroduced a few years ago (don don’t forget, they hibernate).

Best of all, when you return to the town, voted among the most beautiful in Spain, there is an interesting craft museum, a cheese shop and shop, and four superb restaurants, each with their own specialities.

Other notable towns are Salardu and Arties, which has a river running through it and an impressive church, as well as the famous tapas joint of Urtau, where customers queue outside before 7pm and there is space in the bar from from 7:30 p.m.

The capital of the region is Vielha, a bustling city with much to note.

Take a walk and check out the Church of Saint Miqeue, which is a 600-year-old Gothic gem, known for its 12th-century bust of a very gaunt-looking Jesus.

Take my advice, hire a car and take a good drive around the valley when you fancy a break from the snow… you never know you might even decide to cross France, with Fos some 25 minutes away!

For more information visit www.visitvaldaran.com or www.baqueira.es

Where to eat

The real beauty of Baqueira is its proximity to the Val d’Aran and its collection of excellent restaurants.

Every town has a good choice.

Take Bagergue, whose 107 local residents are spoiled for four.

The cuisine is a good mix of Spanish and French, plus some local chestnuts, like an Olla Aranesa, a delicious rich bean and pork stew that warms up the cockles after a hard day on the slopes.

The cheeses are excellent, as are the lamb chops and steaks.

I particularly liked the trio of places I tried in Bagergue, each quite different in style and flavor.

At Casa Rosa, I loved the cheese plate as an appetizer, while the pate and Spanish omelette were delicious.

Jardi dels Pomers has a lovely garden for spring and summer, while in winter a large wood-burning stove to help the ambiance.

Here, definitely try the beef consommé, as well as the ravioli stuffed with mushrooms with truffles.

Meanwhile, Unhola is Basque and you sit appropriately under a large copy of Picasso’s Guernica, eating some excellent crab and wild mushroom crepes, cabone, plus an intriguing wild sea bass burger.

I would also recommend a getaway to Urtau, in Arties, but get there early because you can’t reserve, if sitting is essential.

If not, you can sit at various tables or at the bar and savor the dozens of creative tapas, reminiscent of San Sebastián at its best, if not in quality.

The Eth Cerer Winery, in Unha, is a longtime favorite for the apres-ski crowd and is certainly a well-oiled machine, with two great-value menus (€15 or €18 a head) and good wine. list.

Be sure to arrive early to take a walk around the town.

Where to stay

For classic village charm, stay at the Hotel Seixes in Bagergue, the highest village in the Val d’Aran.

This great-value hotel (left) has wonderful views and, best of all, has four excellent restaurants within a two-minute walk. www.hotelseixes.com

For five-star luxury, it’s hard to beat Hotel Pleta, which is 1,700m away and has its own pool, spa and gourmet restaurant. There’s a separate cigar room, a shuttle to the ski lift, and easily one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever eaten. www.lapleta.com

If you are looking for a villa or an apartment, the best local company is Feel Free Rentals, which has hundreds to rent, from isolated country houses to central ones in the heart of Baqueira. www.feelfreerentals.com.

Buy AND Redeem

Do you want to enjoy a ski holiday in the main tourist center of Spain AND earn money with an investment there?

The specialized real estate company Feel Free has been working with owners in Baqueira for decades, who both use their properties and rent them out for many weeks a year.

The vacation rental company, based in San Sebastián and the Val d’Aran, locates, manages and rents hundreds of villas and apartments in the two key areas.

“We are experts in this type of project and many of our owners are foreigners, since we speak all the main languages, particularly English,” explains CEO Roberto Jiménez.

They have a wide variety of new build projects for sale, as well as a large number of off-plan schematics.

Visit www.feelfreerentals.com or call (+34) 943 56 36 54