CHILLING OUT: Living on the snow line in the Granada region of Spain

DESPITE the unusually warm start of 2023, the mercury plummeted in mid-January and early February, with constant minimum temperature warnings from Spain’s meteorological agency, AEMET. Since then, most of us have been spreading out thick blankets, quilted coats, the wood-burning stove, and fighting the urge to hibernate.

Mountainous areas, such as the Sierra Nevada, often have freezing winter temperatures that residents of the Coast they will not experience, unless they visit higher ground. With many people choosing to live at altitude, what challenges do we face on a daily basis, until spring warms the air?

Living at 1,700m

Previously living at sea level, I came to the Alpujarra for the first time in 2003. My third visit, to the city of Granada, was in October. We were staying at a friend’s house near the Alhambra and I was surprised by how cold it was. He slid down to my bones. Wasn’t Spain supposed to be a warm place?

The scare was worse when I visited the rural area farmhouse now we live, at 1,700m in the Alpujarra. This property is on the snow line in winter and the log burner only heats the lounge. Venture into the bedrooms or bathroom, and there’s a blast of freezing cold, with thin walls and stone floors providing poor insulation. Going outside at night is even worse. We have recently experienced -8C.

At 1,700m, it’s not just the snow that can affect your daily routine. Any water that remains static overnight will freeze, including, on one memorable occasion, the dishwater in the kitchen sink. Yes, inside the house!

Forget about the morning shower or using the washing machine when it’s below zero. The water supply freezes until the midday sun thaws the outside pipes. People whose properties are built in the shade may not have running water throughout the day. This is detrimental to personal hygiene, although some mountain dwellers will happily go without washing even for a fortnight. Some wear the same clothes until the washing machine works again.

Add to these challenges frozen clothes on the washing line, animal feeders that need to break the ice, and slippery floors. If you buy butane gas, be aware that it freezes at 0C, while propane freezes at -44C. Buy the wrong type and your gas appliances won’t work.

Motorsport is a challenge above the snow line. To drive safely, you need a 4×4 with tires made for asphalt and off-road. In the morning, you may find that your car doors are frozen and thick frost needs to be removed from your windshield. The windows of electric cars, if they open, sometimes do not close because the motor has frozen. The starter motor can also be reluctant and the batteries can die suddenly. Other dangers include the black ice, which is unbearable when going downhill. There may also be fog.

Trevélez and his love for snow

One of my favorite towns in the Alpujarras is Trevélez, the second highest in Spain at 1,476 m. It is famous for its cured ham, as well as for its climbs to Mulhacén, the highest peak in the Iberian Peninsula. The inhabitants of Trevélez live on the snow line. They are used to white things in winter. In fact, they love it.

The city’s mayor, Adrián Gallegos Seguros, told Olive Press: “Being on the snow line is wonderful. It is very cold but it offers unique landscapes and we really enjoy the snowy days, especially the children of the village. The council salts the ice and we shovel snow off the doors. The Junta de Andalucía always sends snowplows for our roads”.

With popular resort towns, snow plows arrive quickly to restore access. Years ago, my family was trapped in the Hotel Alcabaza de Buquístar, near Trevélez, because our van could not climb the steep exit slope, which was covered by 10 cm of snow. Minutes after a friend borrowed another guest’s snow chains and broke them all, the snowplow arrived to free the trapped cars.

The nearby towns of Capileira, Bubión and other highland towns are also used to deploying snowplows.

Dílar – Is it really that cold?
According to reports, the coldest town in Granada is Dílar, located at 878 m on the western flank of the Sierra Nevada and on the banks of the Dílar river. The town has 1,500 inhabitants, called dilareños. Virgin destination, without too many obvious tourists, it offers a hotel, camping, equestrian center and mountain trails. So why is it so cold?

According to weather statistics from last winter, freezing temperatures of -9 to -12°C are frequently recorded in the village. This is despite being at a medium height. Similarly, the city of Granada, a stone’s throw away, frequently sees freezing temperatures. Dílar is only 9 km from the Alhambra.

Having visited Dílar several times in the past, I wanted to see if it was colder than I remembered (without the warm rioja served at a friend’s dinner). Would he feel like the proverbial brass monkey? He wasn’t convinced. After I left, it was definitely colder (and more humid) in my own town, at 1000m on the south face of the Sierra Nevada.

Rick, a Brit who has lived in Dilar for many years and divides his time between there and sunny California, says: “It’s not a particularly high town but we did have -17C one year and maybe cold air is pushed down the valley. However, we do see nice lenticular clouds over the mountains in winter.”

pradollano ski resort

The Sierra Nevada ski resort is located on the south face of Veleta, the second highest peak on the Iberian Peninsula, after neighboring Mulhacén. It is a must for lovers of winter sports and lovers of snowy landscapes. The winter sports season runs through April.

In response to the influx of tourists, the town of Pradollano is located at 2,075 m. It offers hotels, hostels and restaurants, located near 106.8 km of ski slopes and 21 ski lifts. When I visited, piles of clean snow were visible along the roadsides. Everything was accessible, although parking spaces were scarce.

I spoke with Carmelo, who has been working in Pradollano for 10 years helping with rental accommodation. He said: “The main problem here is on weekends with parking. Not with snow, as it is constantly being cleaned by machines. This is a good place to be, although I remember a few years where we didn’t have enough snow.”

Climate change isn’t helping ski operators, which means the resort now has 364 artificial snow cannons working on the slopes. Currently, at the top of the ski slopes, the snow is one meter deep, with 20 cm at the lowest elevations.

Just 10 km down the road, nearby Hoya del Mora, which provides the closest vehicular access to Veleta Peak, is full of lovely snow and gorgeous icicles. It’s great for photography, sledding, and literally relaxing.

With all this natural beauty, would you like to live in the Sierra Nevada ski resort? Maybe if you want to run a seasonal rental business.

Always be prepared!
Even if you’re visiting a snowy spot to see the scenery and don’t intend to ski, sled, or hike in nature, it’s best to pack your puffer jacket, waterproof boots, gloves, and a warm hat. Layers of clothing that you can add or remove are recommended.

Always know what you are getting into! Check the weather forecast before heading up a mountain. if you have a sightseeing car without snow chains, do not drive on mountain passes when there is a doubtful weather forecast. And never take a vehicle into a snowy area without enough fuel, blankets, drinks and snacks, in case of a breakdown.

If you’re thinking of moving to the snow line, it’s definitely not for everyone, especially if you don’t like extreme summer and winter temperatures and prefer a moderate climate, such as on the coast.

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